I have always wanted to see the most traditional side of Japan. Little by little, I am learning that the "old Japan" that is usually advertised in guide books, are mostly restored temples next to convenience stores and banks. But in the secluded world of Iya Valley, there was not one vending machine and all stores closed at dinner time. The Chiiori House became the best experience of how traditional Japanese people experienced their lives. It is a NPO that focuses on educating people about old style farming and thatched roof houses. We spent our evening over a fire, drinking sochu and enjoying each others company, minus TV, radio, or any other media. It was refreshing.
Then we made it to the oldest onsen in Japan. All over Japan, this onsen is said to be the best and the ultimate in traditional. When we arrive, we came into the biggest city in Shikoku and found the oldest onsen. It ended up being a old-looking onsen surrounded by souvenir shops, boutiques, and cafes. It did not have the Japanese feel I was looking for, but we enjoyed a nice soak and watching the naked old ladies gossiping in the bath.
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